February Starts with Some Snow

On the first day of February, it snowed. We’ve had a few days of snow here and there so it was nothing unusual. We played outside with Charlie, frolicking and snowballing our way around. And whilst we were up at the house, Dave and I brushed off both the tents since Tarje and Signe are staying in another valley at the moment and can’t get up here in their van in the snow. That evening, I went up and did a second brushing because it was still snowing and we went to bed stress free as usual.

Just a dusting at first

On the second day we woke up late and by the time we were going up to the house it was almost 10am. It had snowed a lot again in the night and we trekked up the hill to brush off the tents. We arrived at our tent to find it sagging under the weight but doing alright. I headed down to Tarje and Signe’s to find it in a sorry state. The flat top of the tent was so heavy with snow that half of the poles had buckled. I called Dave down and we were deciding what to do. It was still snowing, so getting some of the weight off would be important, but it’s so high and we couldn’t think of how to get snow off without adding more weight with a broom to brush it down. Dave started gently brushing a bit of snow off one of the sides with his hands, but as he touched it, the cascade of destruction rippled across the remaining half of the tent. The middle pole buckled, then the next, then the last. The force of the collapse made all the furniture piece through the fabric and there lay a huge pile of broken poles, shredded canvas and lots and lots of snow on top of all of their belongings. Shit. We felt really guilty. Looking back, I’m not sure what else we could have

realistically done. I kept thinking I should have gone inside to hold it up, but apart from the fact that I am not sure we could have unzipped the door without it collapsing, I don’t think it would have been a very safe idea.

So I headed down the hill and drove over to deliver the bad news and bring them back so that we could move all their stuff into their house, which was at least waterproof. When I told them what had happened, there was no gasping or questioning. Tarje said factually “Well I guess we’d better live in the house”. It’s quite spectacular how chilled out they are. We could all do with being a bit more like Tarje. They got themselves ready and off we went. We hiked up and we dug out the tent to retrieve their things and move them inside where we had to shake off the snow and leave it all to be sorted out another time. The tent wreckage got left on the platform for now and we all went down to our rental house for warm tea and lunch before I took them home.

On day three we woke up to find it had snowed less in the night and it melted a bit over the course of the day, which was a relief. We spent the day reading and eating and went over to Tarje and Signe’s for dinner, but by the time we were driving home at 11pm, it was snowing again and we skidded up the road to the car park and sloshed home to bed.

On day four I woke up to find Dave and Charlie gone and a huge dump of fresh snow outside. When I headed up towards the house, I found their footprints and met them on their way down from clearing the tent, which had taken poor Dave ages when he was supposed to be working. That day it stopped snowing a little but the whole area suffered a power cut, so we went up in the afternoon to try and clear the solar panels to at least have power up there. It was a tricky job getting on the roof and trying to clear them, and Dave only managed to uncover parts of some of the panels, so we didn’t get any power from them, but he did at least manage to charge the laptop off the batteries. By the time we went back home, it was almost the end of the day and the power came back on, which saved us a job eating several kilos of Brussels sprouts out of the freezer.

On day five we woke up to a load more snow and Dave headed off to the wifi place for work whilst I trekked up to the house with the puppy. It was quite something just getting up there! The snow in the track was up to my knees and I followed in Charlie’s tracks for an easier walk. The trees by the path were bowing or broken under the weight of the snow; hanging branches dangled and snapped bits of tree were strewn across the path. When we got up towards the house, the snow was up to my waist in places and Charlie had to bounce like a deer to get anywhere. She’s spring up to go forwards, then land and sink up to her tummy before springing up again. We made it up to the tent platform and I set about shovelling. The snow was thick and heavy, sticking to the shovel, making the tool twice as heavy as normal and half as effective. Every time I cleared a space on the platform, I’d have to brush snow down off the tent, which would fill the space and I’d clear it again. It took about an hour to clear the tent and I left the platform to do later because I needed some breakfast.

In the afternoon I decided we needed supplies. I’d been putting off shopping because of the snow but we hadn’t been to the supermarket since getting back from holiday and I was feeling the need to get out of the village. We borrowed some shovels from a neighbour and headed over to the car. We couldn’t actually see any of it, just a big white dome with a mound of snow blocking it in after the snow plough had been past. We spent about an hour digging it out and manoeuvring it out of the space. The road down had been ploughed but it had been snowing all day so it was a bit slippery and there was only a single track with huge snow banks on each side. It was a bit surreal getting to the bottom and driving along a snow-free road towards the snow-free city and being dressed in gaiters with a shovel in the boot. On my way back, I made my way slowly up the slushy tracks in the snow, skidding all the way. Finally at the top, someone was parked in the space I’d left behind, so I had to dig out a new one. Meanwhile Dave was digging out the tent platform that I hadn’t finished that morning. It was almost dark by the time the car was parked, the tent was cleared and we were walking to the rental house with the shopping, ready to go to bed.


Spot the car!!

On day six, we woke up to no extra snow. Thank goodness for that! I went up to the house with Charlie to take some pictures. The path up there was alright because we’d been up and down every day and there is a hard packed snow trail now. But going into our field was another matter! The greenhouse had almost completely buried itself from shedding snow off the front and making a huge mound below. I could hardly move around – one leg would sink in all the way to my bum without my foot finding the ground, then I’d have to try and get the other leg ahead of it. When I finally got to the greenhouse, my pea seeds needed watering but all the taps were frozen.

It was quite nice walking around in the snow when it wasn’t snowing any more and I was feeling optimistic. But it’s snowing again now and the forecast is for it to carry on until Sunday! Watch this snowy space…

January snow and sun

We returned from a UK Christmas at the end of December with a renewed enthusiasm for everything that needed doing. We bought down-pipes for the gutters and put them together in a slightly temporary fashion to keep the water away from the house. I spent a week in the garden taking out old plants, building new raised beds, planting garlic and replanting good parsnips for seed. Dave cleared away some of the building site debris and pruned the gnarly old apple tree behind the house.


I decided to build a firewood store using some of the old roof beams. We have a bit of firewood kicking around but it’s all been outside getting wetter instead of drier. We had done the initial ground prep then one day Dave was working on his laptop and I decided to get on with it. I set the four posts in place, measured and cut more wood to make the top of the frame, put in cross-braces and added a waterproof roof with some old tiles on top. I was pretty pleased with it for a day’s work. It is sturdy and functional and I learned to use the circular saw in the process. That project made me decide that not only am I capable of building things, but I like it too, which has pleased me no end. Since we moved here, I’ve been enjoying the slow re-distribution of work from a relatively traditional division of labour to a more equal one. I’m getting better at building and fixing things whilst Dave is taking more responsibility around the house. It has definitely made me feel more independent.

We have started pointing the inside back wall (despite the fact that the side wall we started is less than half finished). One week whilst Dave was working, I did a bucket a day and saw slow but steady progress. Then Dave spent a few days on it and got a fair bit done. One afternoon, I went in and remarked ‘Oh – you’ve built up the apex’ and I think my flat tone gave away my wince of disappointment as I looked up at the very wonky bit of new wall. He’d been working so close to it that he’d matched it to the nearest stones (which stuck out a lot) rather than the overall aspect. He stepped back a bit and looked at it, acknowledging defeat ‘It looks rubbish doesn’t it. I’m going to have to do it again.’ I did protest, but not too much, because it was quite rubbish. And to his credit, he took a deep breath, tore it down and built it back up again and now it looks great.

The pointing was aided by the addition of four pairs of hands on our first group workday! It was great fun. Our friend Judy who runs a small hotel nearby had two volunteers staying and all three of them fancied coming out to see what we were up to and help out for a day. My friend San was also visiting at the time and so the six of us were up at the house enjoying a beautiful sunny day, great company and some good honest work. Ellie and I made a storage place for the old roof beams to stop them rotting on the ground, then carried the beams down where Judy pulled all the nails out before they went into position. Dave and Nick were busy pointing and San was sorting pruned bits of apple tree into firewood and kindling boxes. Then we had a sunny lunch break, looked around the village together, did a bit more pointing and everyone enjoyed chopping some firewood and having a go on the circular saw. Smiles all around and I hope we meet up again.

January was a mixed bag in terms of weather, but we’ve made the most of the sun and the snow. When we haven’t been working on the house, we’ve been out sledging or walking in our winter gear, then coming back to the rental house, lighting the fire and cooking up pies made with garden veggies.

At the end of January we went away to go on a biannual skiing trip to the Alps with my extended family. After a big dump of snow and closed pistes on the first day, we were delighted by perfect snow and glorious sunshine for the next five days. We skied, we drank, we danced and we chatted until we were all exhausted!

We came home to one last sunny day before lots of forecast snow and enjoyed being up at the house getting on with a few jobs and basking in our view, happy to be home again.


Solstice to solstice in the garden

On the longest day of the year, summer was just getting going and I was trying to get my greenhouse ready to plant. Dave had been away so I’d spent two weeks in the hottest weather we’ve had here dragging in chestnut posts, digging six post holes almost 1m deep, setting the posts in position and hammering rocks in to back-fill the holes. By the time he got back the structure was up and I was proud to have built something good on my own. Even Dave thought it looked well-constructed, which was praise indeed!

The tomatoes, peppers, chillies, physalis, tomatillos and aubergines went in the greenhouse and seemed happy in their new home. The pumpkins got planted out and we were harvesting spring veggies too. It hardly rained over the whole summer and autumn and I had to water a lot. The forests and fields managed to stay green, although there was much less grass than usual and the farmers had to buy in hay for their cows.

With all the dry weather, our water supply was going from a torrent to a trickle and at one point in October it stopped flowing. After being without water for a while, we got in touch with the town hall and they sent people up straight away to sort it out. The next day it started flowing again! It turned out that there was a leak in the pipe and the water just wasn’t getting to us, which was a relief. But the lack of rain has been an issue this year, the rivers and streams held out but only just.

When we started work on the roof in mid November, we’d had our first few days of winter rain and a couple of frosts. It was beautiful autumn weather, the hot low sun bringing out the colours in the forest as the leaves turned. Then it really started to rain and it just didn’t seem to stop! It rained and rained and the paths turned into rivers and the streams turned into torrents and weak section of stone walls have been tumbling down into paths. Up at our place, the barn has been leaking and the walls are starting to fall down. All around the house is mud, mud, mud. And our poor tent is still up because we haven’t got anywhere to put everything and it’s going green and mouldy, which is awful.

When it hasn’t been raining, it’s been snowing! This has been great fun and has made for even more dramatic views of the mountains.

Autumn and winter are a fruitful time for the garden. Even though I have almost never weeded, have sometimes forgotten to water and often neglected to harvest, the efforts early in the year have been paying off. Even the greenhouse is still going strong now – I’ve still been harvesting tomatoes, peppers, chillies and physalis, although the plants are definitely looking like they’ve had enough now that we’ve had a fair few frosts and it’s almost January!

Outside, there are lots of ocas to dig up, as well as sun chokes, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, kale, red cabbage and romanesco cauliflower. Of course we’ve got a stash of pumpkins, carrots and beetroot too, so we’ve been eating lots of lovely winter soups, stews and currys. I’ll be planting garlic soon and the onions and winter cabbage that are already in the ground are looking like they’re happy to survive the winter.

It’s been great to learn what went well and what didn’t this year. I’m going to be more selective about what I grow next year and keep to a smaller, better managed area of the garden. The well-constructed beds produced a lot more food and required less watering. The star producer this year was the sun chokes (also called Jerusalem artichokes but bear zero resemblance) – I dug up one plant yesterday and harvested 4kg! They were really no effort at all, I just stuck little chunks of root in the ground and up they popped. They taste so good roasted. The ocas have been great too – they are also no effort to grow and produced well, although I think they would have done better if some stray horses hadn’t eaten all their leaves right before they put all that energy down into their tasty tubers! Maybe my smaller garden next year needs a fence…

The wild boar did come into the garden once, but they only dug up a tiny patch of bare ground where I’d already harvested. In the field they have been slightly more destructive, but the farmer is more annoyed about that than we are.

Dave thinks we shouldn’t keep a garden next year because it’s time consuming and we have so much other work to do. He does have a point… We still have to build the front wall of the house, make the entire inside floor lower, put in the mezzanine level, order and install the windows, do all the plumbing and electrics off-grid, build a bathroom wall and put in two custom staircases. And then we can start to fit the kitchen and bathroom. I’m tired just thinking about it!

Having said that, I’m still going to keep a garden next year, sorry Dave! It brings me so much joy, I don’t think I can let the seasons pass me by without planting any seeds.

And so today is the shortest day. The sun came up over the hill at two minutes to ten and it will go down at exactly 5pm. From tomorrow the days are getting longer and before I know it I’ll be planting again. Happy solstice everyone!


The roof is on!

Having thought we’d have to put the roof works on pause until January, we had a few unexpected breaks in the rain and were able to progress a little.

The first job we wanted done was to get the second corner tiled so that we would only need one tarp to cover the unfinished bit. We were busy with that one morning – as usual Duran was on the roof and we would be passing him tiles as he needed them. If he ran out there would be cries of “TEJA!” and if you brought him an old one he didn’t like the look of, he’d say it was ugly and you’d have to go and find some pretty ones instead. If you brought one he took real dislike to he’d mutter to himself “this one is ugly like a demon”, but sometimes he’d use it anyway. I still haven’t worked out what makes an old tile pretty or ugly!

That day we did a bit but then over lunch when the boys were away it suddenly started raining and Dave and I clambered to get the tarps on as fast as possible, slipping and sliding on the tarp whilst the raindrops were soaking into the chipboard. A tiny bit of water came inside – nothing major, but it did put a halt to work that afternoon.


Last corner done

We took advantage of our rain days to go and buy a new power tool – a reciprocating saw to do the round holes in the roof! It’s great and I’m sure it will be put to good use after the roof is done too.

Then a few days later the forecast was for a clear afternoon, so we started at 1pm and managed to get quite a bit done. Dave was going to be leaving for the UK the next day and we didn’t want to do the hole-cutting without him because he’s the only one with the accuracy and patience to cut them nicely! So he was busy all day prepping and chopping and keeping the rest of us in line. We got loads done and it went very well indeed. By the end of the day, we had the sun tunnel, Velux window and chimney all in place and even got a bit more tiling done too.

Once Dave had left, I spent the weekend harvesting and processing some garden veggies before starting up again on Monday morning with the promise of sunshine – finally! Having had a glorious Sunday as foretold, I was expecting to finish the roof on Monday. But we started under a blanket of cloud, spent the morning placing tiles in the drizzle and covered it up again to stop work at lunchtime because it was raining. It kept raining all afternoon and all night and the roads and paths became rivers once again. Ugh.

But today was good. After a misty start, the sun came out and we finished the top row of tiles with a beautiful view. All we had to do was place the final big tiles on the apex and we were done by midday! Then a neighbour came over with home made pizza and hot chocolate and we enjoyed a chat and some food before doing some finishing touches and cleaning up. And just like that, we have a waterproof roof – hurray! I won’t say that it’s finished exactly, there’s still quite a bit to do, especially inside, but the roof itself is on and the workmen are done so the rest is over to us…


Waterproof roof


The Roof

All summer and autumn I pestered the builders about the roof to no avail. So November came around and we found a house to rent in the village for the winter, which has made our lives so much more comfortable. Then out of the blue on the 12th of November, I got a text that said, “We start Tuesday”. And sure enough, on Tuesday morning at 9 o’clock sharp, they walked down the field to the back of the house, said hello and started taking tiles off the roof. Since then, we’ve been working non-stop when the sun has been shining and resting on our laurels when it’s been raining.

The first two weeks we had good weather – and it was exhausting! But with two paid workers, Dave and I and some help from our friend Jules, we got things done pretty quickly. The tiles came off, the slatted wood came off, then the old beams were removed and the shelf above the balcony came out. Before we knew it, two huge new beams were being installed on the front corners and it was time to put the whole thing back together again.



The two main sides of the roof were relatively simple and the new beams went in fast, getting chocked up or chiselled into the old side beams as required to make them all level. Then we put a huge new beam in at the front and replaced the shelf above the balcony.


Next up was the front part of the roof, which proved to be more difficult. This is where the old roof used to have a steep section then a less steep section to allow it to come out further than the side corners and shade the balcony whilst still lining up with the two sides. The builders were intent on having it all come down at one angle, but still have it line up with the sides and come out as far as before. Clearly this was a physical impossibility. Dave was away that day getting the MOT and the two builders called for ‘Grandad’ (a seasoned roofer) to come and help. This meant that I was alone on the roof with three Spanish builders trying to explain to them why the beams wouldn’t sit straight with each other. They didn’t get it. Instead, they kept trying ridiculous solutions that didn’t work, then scratching their heads and saying how strange this bit of roof was. [ARGH!]

After some time, they finally agreed on a solution so bizarre I couldn’t even explain it if I wanted to, but that involved re-chocking one entire side of completed roof and setting one of the front beams squint instead of square to the front of the house. “Yes I think that’s the best thing to do”, said Duran to the other two, “even though we’ve angered the blonde one.”

And so they went about putting the front beams on and I tried to shake off my anger and help because that would be the quickest way to find out whether it was going to work or not. As the afternoon wore on, we cut and placed beams and watched the front part of the roof take on its predicted Pringle-like form as the builders scratched their heads, at a loss as to how this could be happening. [Sigh]

29 Start front side

The problematic front of roof

The next day I was able to approach things more rationally and could see that the new front section did in fact give us more room inside whilst still providing the same amount of shade to the balcony. Most of the distortion was minimal and wouldn’t be visible in the end, so the only problem was that the last two beams at each end stuck up a lot more than the others, which looked rather odd. I suggested that they be chiselled into the big beam, the builders agreed and everyone was happy with the outcome. Phew.

The most boring part was doing the walls. On three sides, the stone walls had to be raised up around the joists to make the whole thing weather-tight. We spent a few days mixing lime mortar, hauling rocks and building up the walls.

31 Build up side wall

Building up stone walls between beams

After that, the next step was to add the ‘sandwich’. These are panels made of three stuck-together layers. The bottom layer is wood panelling, the middle layer is insulation, the top layer is chipboard. It’s fast to put on, gives you an instant finish inside and an outside surface that’s ready to tile. Ours has 8cm insulation instead of the typical 2 or 3, which will serve us well in summer and winter.

Nobody here seems to understand why we’re spending more than is typical here trying to insulate our roof properly. We keep getting asked why we’ve opted for such fat sandwich insulation, or for triple-glazed roof windows. To me it just seems obvious! An extra 800€ now (maybe 5% of the total cost) and we will have to chop less firewood every single year. Of course if you had a big house and all those numbers got doubled or tripled, that’s a different matter! But luckily we have a small house that we can afford to do well.

Once the sandwich was on, there was a gap in the apex to fill neatly with little bits of sandwich – that was a precision job for Dave that took all day. In the meantime, the builders were fitting the gutters and nailing down waterproof under-tile material called onduline. They got one side done before it started raining and we had to cover the roof in tarps and have a week off.




Just when I was marvelling at how fast things were going, it was time to fit the first Velux roof window. This was pretty much an all day job. It started with the builders doing it how they always do it, us looking at it and then deciding that wasn’t how we wanted it done. Dave was getting frustrated because he found their work style infuriating and couldn’t communicate with them. He kept getting the Velux booklet out and pointing at the instructions, to which Duran would say “That book is filled with a thousand lies”, or “Oh my god if he gets that booklet out again…!” Although this was all rather amusing, I was getting tired of Dave’s attitude and on top of that, our new window looked like shit. Over lunch, Dave and I agreed on what we wanted and decided we’d ask for it to be changed.

Thankfully Duran was receptive to our request and we all got on and fixed it together. It ended up looking fantastic and Dave and I were glowing with renewed confidence in our friendly builders and our own decision-making. Hopefully the window on the other side will go a bit quicker.

Once the window was in, we could glue down tiles down all around it. We have opted for new tiles underneath for easier and more waterproof construction, but old tiles on top so that the roof maintains its original rustic aesthetic. Having spent all that extra money on insulation, the builders were very confused about why we weren’t spending a tiny bit extra on more new tiles. But still, by the end of that day, the first of three sides was complete! Yay! Then we looked at the forecast and covered it all up for another week whilst we got our first snow of the season.



The snow melted and the sun came out and we went back to work getting the front waterproof. Guttering, onduline and tiles were installed and then two sides were complete.


Lovely view

Now December has arrived and it has been raining a lot. By the look of the forecast, I think the roof is going to have stay covered in tarps until January, which is a shame because I think with two more days of work we could get it finished. Ah well, such is life – especially if you start work on your roof in mid-November!


Autumn renovations

I’m feeling less optimistic about having a weather-proof stove-heated building to live in by the time winter comes. But at the moment we’re making progress every day and we’re enjoying beautiful autumn weather whilst we’re doing it.

The current project is to rebuild the upstairs front wall. The old wall was made from wattle and daub and built on top of the balcony floorboards. We had a great time tearing the old wall down with help from Tarje and Ralph. Then we’d planned to build a new brick wall, leaving spaces for two windows and a door. But with the wall down, the plans had to change. Firstly, we realised that all that light and view could not be shut out behind bricks. Secondly, we realised that the top of the downstairs stone wall, which supports the balcony floor and main floor, had been partly raised. This means that the inside floor (which is about 15cm higher than the balcony floor) could be lowered to put it all on the same level. That meant taking down the top of the wall around the floor joists, then replacing the balcony joists with new wood in the same place as the old wood. And replacing the inside joists with new wood at a lower level than the old joists.

And so building a small brick wall has turned into weeks of work – mostly for Dave! But he’s having a great time measuring, chiselling and sawing each of the 14 new balcony joists to make them all perfectly level.

Meanwhile the roofer Duran is nowhere to be seen. I told him that our materials had arrived almost two weeks ago, but (as expected) nobody is in a hurry to get on with anything! At least we’re busy whilst we wait.

I’ve been making some more progress on the barn – the roof that looked like a forest floor is gradually being cleaned to reveal actual roof tiles. And I’ve been getting quotes and drawings for an off-grid heating and hot water system. We have a plan now but it’s a big job and there’s so much else to do! So on demand hot water may remain a pipe dream this winter.

The garden has been very much neglected for the last month or two. But I do still harvest things from it when I remember! We’ve been eating cauliflower, kohl rabi, broccoli, tomatoes, basil, aubergines, onions and beetroot from the garden. And we’ve collected hazelnuts and mushrooms from nearby too.

We spend time with friends, sometimes go climbing or hiking. And the puppies take up a fair bit of time. They’re four months old now and almost as tall as their mum!

Did I mention we have wifi now? Well we do, it’s very exciting. Now can’t imagine life here without it!

There is one thing I really miss. A sofa. I so miss having a sofa. Somewhere comfy to sit when it’s not nighttime. Not a day goes by without me wishing I had a sofa. Of course there are other things that would be nice to have like hot water, heating, a house to heat, an actual kitchen, but those things don’t bother me as much as the absence of a sofa. A comfy, comfy sofa….


Wall removal

Balcony floor removal


The garden


House Progress

So it’s the end of August and we’ve been living here for 5 months. I can reveal with a sigh of relief that we have in fact started working on the house! Hurray! Cheers and applause all around! Here’s what we’ve been up to…

We found a supplier of natural hydraulic lime with which to make lime mortar. This is a great alternative to Portland cement because it has a smaller carbon footprint, it is breathable and although it’s got strength like cement, it’s softer than the rock around it. This means that if there’s damage to the stone wall, it’s the mortar that suffers, not the stone, and the mortar can be replaced a lot more easily. With our newly appropriated lime, we have started pointing parts of the house. This involves removing the old mortar between the facing stones, replacing it with new lime mortar then brushing it before it dries to make it look nice. The first batch we did at the back of the house came out with the stones all coated in white lime powder that can’t be removed unless you use an acid wash. So the next batch inside we have been doing with a slower but much less wasteful method that leaves the stones beautifully clean. The finished effect is lovely and some of the work is quite relaxing, but it is very time consuming and there’s still loads to do.

We have ordered our windows and front door, which will hopefully fit beautifully into the gaps in the walls when they arrive in a month or so.

We have decided how to rebuild our front wall on the first floor, which is currently a holey mix of latticed wood filled with stone and cob. We’re going to take it down and replace it with a wall made of thick insulating bricks which will then be rendered with lime mortar. The new doorway will be a normal height (we are both eagerly awaiting a future that will be head-smash free – at least upstairs) and the windows will be bigger and higher too.

About a week ago, we had the materials for this new front wall delivered. Ivan from the local building supply store brought them to the field above ours, then the neighbouring farmer / builder / handyman Duran brought them to the back of the house on a tractor and trailer. He brought the tonne bag of sand first. They laid out a tarp behind the trailer, then simply raised the trailer to allow it to cascade off the back and spill its contents all over the tarp. Then he brought two pallets of bricks down (total weight about 1.2 tonnes). As he was reversing down the hill, he shouted to Ivan “It’s not going to fall out is it?”, to which the reply came calmly “I’m not sure”, followed by sliding and crashing and rolling of bricks down the hill. Well that’s one way to get them off the trailer! Luckily the bricks seem pretty tough and surprisingly few got damaged. I couldn’t stop chuckling to myself about the ridiculousness of it – the big pile of bricks strewn down the hillside with bits of plastic packaging and broken pallet sticking out.

Dave has been rescuing our little barn from its green tomb. He’s been clearing ivy from the walls and roof and is now in the process of removing tiles, putting down corrugated waterproof sheets, then replacing the tiles on top. This is a temporary measure to try and stop the whole thing falling down from water damage before we get around to dealing with it.

The roof works on our house are scheduled with Duran hopefully for September, although these things tend to start later than you expected and go on for longer. We’ll see what happens, but I feel (at the moment) that it can be done before winter.

So after months of trying to get things off the ground, it’s all sort of happening at once. There’s a lot to think about. Even when we’re just meditatively pointing the inside walls, we need to remember things like where to leave space for wiring, plug sockets and light switches. We’re also trying to get our residency application off the ground, which is proving to be as difficult, time-consuming and bureaucratically ridiculous as expected. We still have to apply for a permit to do the roof. And every day we have to do all our normal life stuff too – Dave goes to work 3-4 days a week, we have visitors, we have a garden to tend, we have a puppy to look after, sometimes we allow ourselves time to go climbing or I do yoga or we go and meet people. We have all that normal stuff to do that takes up so much of our time. I’m not complaining – I like that stuff. But the expectations are constantly getting re-evaluated and deadlines move further into the future as it becomes obvious that they were always unattainable. So who knows… maybe we’ll be in the house this winter… maybe our tent will have to see us through a few more frosts!


Repointing the back wall outside

Starting with the new method inside

Asturian farmer delivers building materials

Dave working on the barn

Trips and visits

Charlie is growing up

Summer has begun

It’s a hot afternoon and I’m sitting in the hammock under the dappled shade of an ash tree contemplating my new life here. The breeze is keeping me cool and from the hammock I am overlooking the roof of our house, part of our field and the view of the tree-covered hills beyond. There are birds singing, bees buzzing, crickets chirping, a far away cockerel crowing, and in the distance I can hear cowbells and the occasional dog barking in the village below. Our field has turned into a beautiful meadow since the cows departed for higher pastures. The grasses are waving in the breeze and the wildflowers are blooming in the sun. The grass won’t get cut for hay until the end of July, and after that the cows will be back.

Dave is away at the moment on a natural building course in Portugal. My sister Faye and her boyfriend Iain were here visiting for five days, and yesterday evening I dropped them off at the airport. Whilst they were here, we had some nice holiday time walking along the river, having lunches in the sun and chatting over beers, but they also got to work building a fence to keep the cows out of what will be the pumpkin patch. It’s looking wonderful and went up a lot faster with extra pairs of hands! I spent this morning finishing off the fence and starting to scythe the part of the field I want to plant.

Before that, Dave’s parents were here to visit. They had less luck with the weather but we enjoyed several little jaunts including a trip around a big cave in the next valley. It contains one of the largest bat populations in Spain! You can’t go in the bit where the bats live, but we had a great tour of the other parts of the cave.

The veg garden is growing up nicely. It looks like we’re about to have quite a lot of peas to eat, which will be just great! And all my summer crops are starting to get going now. I’ve planted out my runner beans by their poles. I’ve got lots of seedlings coming up of parsnip, broccoli, cauliflower, pumpkin, French bean, kohl rabi, white beetroot, sweetcorn and sunflower. The tomato and pepper plants that I’ve been growing in small pots are all going to need somewhere to go, but I’m still deciding where that will be! There always seems to be a lot to do. I counted the other day that I have to make space for about 50 pumpkin plants, despite already having 25 out in the garden. If they all grew up to give us an average of 2.5 pumpkins each, that would be 188 pumpkins. That may be a few too many… we shall see.

As for the house… well there has been a tiny amount of progress because the stone builder came up to have a look at it. He recons that we don’t have to do anything will the bulging walls except to re-point them (i.e. replace the mortar between the stones). That was a big relief and that’s a lot of work that we don’t have to do, so phew!

We chatted to him about the work we wanted to do whilst he was here. When I said that I was keen to have the re-pointing done in the old style, using a clay-soil mix for mortar, he said “But that’s how they did things before. Now we have cement and it’s better.” I’m sure cement is stronger, but the point of the mortar is to allow the wall to breathe as well as support the stones and make it weather proof. We still haven’t decided what to do, but I think we’re both pretty strongly against using cement in our build. Cement is energy-intensive to produce, releasing a lot of CO2 in the process. I know we’re only doing a small project so you might think our contribution won’t make a difference, but imagine everyone realised that they could make a difference by doing their little projects in a more sustainable way.

Now we just have to choose roof insulation, order the materials and get on with it! Don’t hold your breath.

Even though progress might seem glacial, I don’t feel any stress or pressure about this project. It would be nice to have a roof, walls, windows, door and a wood stove before winter, but other than that we can do the internal parts later on even if the weather isn’t great.

At the moment, I’m enjoying our first summer here and regularly reflecting on how happy and lucky I feel to be here. This place is fantastic, our neighbours are wonderful and I spend my time outdoors doing what I love.

And just in case things weren’t perfect enough, Tarje and Signe’s dog Fi had two puppies a few weeks ago. They are going to keep the boy puppy who’s called Raid, and Dave and I are going to have the girl puppy who’s called Charlie. The pair of them have just started stumbling around and wagging their tails and trying to play fight with each other between falling over. It’s pretty much the most adorable thing you’ve ever seen.

So there we go – we’re about to have a dog to train and feed as well as a house to do up and a garden to tend. We still have occasional shitty days where it rains all the time or we are tired or argumentative, but on the whole, life is pretty fucking epic at the moment.

Maybe I will go and have something to eat whilst waiting for the garden to be in the evening shade so that I can carry on scything.


The Renners braved a trip into the bat cave!

Faye and Iain enjoyed a lovely sunny visit

The garden is coming to life

We made some new friends in another valley

Pictures from home

The puppies Charlie and Raid with Mum Fi

Tent life

It’s been a month and a half since we moved, which is barely believable. We still haven’t started on the house yet, so don’t get too excited, but we have done a few things to make life outdoors a little more civilised…

Following a trip to Ikea and at least 40 minutes in the car park trying to cram everything into the boot, we are excited to have a comfy mattress, new duvet and real towels! We also have light in the tent and the wood burning stove set up, which is a lovely development and we can now enjoy sitting by the fire reading a book on a chilly night.

I moved the mountain of bramble cuttings that had been accumulating in the garden, then we dug out a little pond (where apparently there used to be one) and it’s now home to pond skaters, a toad and lots and lots of mosquito larvae. And the passing dogs like to play in it, destroying our lovely reed bed in the process.

We knocked down half of the ugly concrete water storage tank outside the house and Dave turned the rest of it into a sink – brilliant! No more on-the-grass washing up with the hosepipe.

Dave worked through snow, wind, hail and sun to put up an outdoor shower in advance of his siblings visiting, then we screened it with bamboo. So no more hope-nobody-is-coming washes with the hosepipe either. There’s a wonderful view from the new shower to distract you from the cold water! It does actually get quite hot when the sun is shining on the black hose, but we’ve had our share of cloudy and chilly days of late!

The garden continues to expand and fill with food. We’ve been eating lettuce, rocket, rapini, radishes, carrots, coriander, chives and mint from the garden. My nursery is doing alright, although I had several set-backs including mouse-eaten seeds! Already dreaming of a nice greenhouse, but I think it will have to wait.

We all spent a day building a hot compost heap! If you don’t have a garden, maybe you don’t get as excited by compost as gardeners do, so you’ll just have to take it from me that compost is exciting. The idea with hot compost is that you pile up alternating layers of ‘green’ like freshly cut grass and weeds and ‘brown’ like straw or dry leaves. Then it gets up to 55 degrees, then you turn it, then it heats up, then you turn it, etc. And after 18 days, you have a huge pile of perfect soil for the garden and all the weed seeds have been killed by the heat. Except ours got too hot and killed all the good bacteria! We’ve managed to get it going now but it is not as quick as it should be.

We have been to check out the local climbing wall with Tarje and Signe – there are loads of great routes, the views are wonderful and when you’re not climbing you can hang out in the shade of the trees, so it seems ideal! Just need to wrench myself away from the garden some time to go back.

We enjoyed a four-day visit from Dave’s siblings and nephew, which was lovely. We went to the beach, walked up to the hermitage, visited the 1000-yr old yew tree, had a typical ‘menu del dia’ lunch that filled us up until bedtime and sat outside the house drinking beer. And they seemed to be happy enough with the guest sleeping arrangements – at least we have mattresses, duvets, pillows and towels now.

Our new washing machine arrived! It’s sooooo good. When the sun is shining, it doesn’t even use power from the batteries. Dave has also taken to doing his fair share of laundry now that it doesn’t have to be done by hand.


Dave has been keeping busy with more carpentry projects – improving the shower with a lovely door, making more steps up to the house and digging a flat area for a new poo pit! We were told that a 1m x 1m x 1m humanure compost area would take a year to fill up, and although ours was only about half that, we seem to have filled it in less than two months! The next one will be bigger.


We have started thinking about the house. We’ve got our first quote for materials for the roof and we’ve started the process of making contact with someone who can advise us as to what to do about our bulging back wall. So hopefully next month we’ll at least know what we plan to do, even if we haven’t started yet!

In the meantime, here’s a few pictures of the place…


The Iberian emerald lizard – endemic to the Iberian peninsula

We had some snow and quite a good frost. Luckily the only things out in the garden were hardy enough to cope and we already had the fire set up and our new duvet.

We’ve seen all kinds of weather here now! I definitely felt a need to crack on with the house after that frost, but otherwise we’ve still really been enjoying life outdoors.


We’ve moved!

On the last day in March we packed up the car, finished cleaning out our apartment and drove over to the new house. We left Richard and Suzanne with new workaway volunteer Pablo, having spent a few days with to show him around. He works hard in the mornings and then goes for long walks in the mountains in the afternoons, so we were confident that we’d left them with a pair of good helping hands. And it’s only a week or two until we go back and visit them.

Moving day was long but once we were on the motorway, we relaxed and everything seemed to go smoothly. We arrived and put the tent up with Tarje helping us to do it without arguing. It took a lot longer to put it up on a platform than grass because you have to peg out the guy lines with screws and wooden poles and things. But it was ready to sleep in on the first night, which was an exciting development, albeit bloody freezing.

We had a chilly, rainy few days but made the most of it with a whole day’s expedition to the city’s shops with a list a mile long. We got some things to make life easier and more comfortable, and it’s already starting to feel like home.

3 Our place

Our tent and house

On one walk to the car, we met Alberto (who had previously given us three cherry trees to plant) and he offered us a mattress. It’s the smallest double I’ve ever seen at 180cm long by 120cm wide, but it fits perfectly in our tent! Of course Dave doesn’t fit perfectly in it, so we’ll have to fashion some sort of one-sided extension at some point, but it beats the camping mattress.

We found a bed frame in the house and Tarje and Signe gave us some legs for it, and we moved the big arm chairs from the house to the tent, so it’s pretty nice in there now. Just need some shelving to keep out piles of clothes off the floor and we’ll be set.

Dave built some steps up to our platform and I spent a day organising the downstairs of the house. Amongst the piles of dusty rubbish, I found a two-hob burner, a full gas bottle, a mirror, a full box of cutlery and some plates, which are all coming in handy. I put up some shelving and boxed up all our food in there and even though it’s 12 degrees and not as cold as a fridge, it keeps things pretty well.

Dave and Tarje spent several days hooking up three of the solar panels and four of the batteries that we got together (that’s only part of the system that we’ll have eventually, but the roof isn’t ready to have panels on it yet). So now, as if by magic, we have off-grid power! It’s brilliant – there’s a plug in our tent and you can power stuff from it! Signe and I are already dreaming about a washing machine. I find our small amount of hand laundry a pain, but they’ve got little Roar going through clothes and nappies every day.

Although I’m sure we will get our own wifi connection here, there is actually a public building in the next village that has great internet. Dave has been given a key to the place for 3€ a month, so he’s been working in there a few days whilst I’ve been organising the place, planting seeds and building a little plant nursery. The first three or four days we were here, I pretty much was busy from dawn till dusk, too excited about getting on with things to sit down. But that’s pretty tiring and my body is aching, so I’m resigned to taking it a bit easier, especially when it’s as hot as it has been! We’ve had three days in the high 20s and whilst it’s lovely to sit in the shade, it can get a bit hot working out in the sun. But at least in this weather, my tomatoes and chillies should be germinating!

21 Nursery build

Dave filling my newly built nursery bed with cow poo

The wildlife here is gloriously abundant. There are little lizards basking on the rocks, butterflies, bees and other insects buzzing all around and little birds chirping in the trees. You can’t put anything down without something going to live in it! I had left a bit of old carpet outside on a rock and when I picked it up, there were loads of earthworms underneath. The planting modules attract butterflies, and then the lizards that live in the wall hunt them. We put a tarp over a fence so that we could ‘shower’ in relative privacy and when I went to take it down there was a lizard basking in its folds. The songbirds dance around our tent in the mornings and sometimes you see a bird of prey or a vulture flying high overhead. There are patches of white and pink blossoms around and the broadleaf trees are starting to emerge from their dormant winter. The hillside we overlook that has been brown all winter is getting greener by the day as the ash and oak trees are first to emerge between the beeches. We have been taking walks over to those woods get down to the stream where we can cool down in the heat of the afternoon.

We’ve taken a few little exploratory strolls around the other buildings and ruins of our little hamlet. As well as our house and Tarje and Signe’s house, there’s quite a good barn between them then a small assortment of old houses, barns and ruins close by. The house that was most recently inhabited full-time did have on-grid electricity but has been stood disconnected and abandoned for about 40 years.

Everything that needs doing here is hard work to get started but it’s rewarding to see how quickly things change when you work at it. We are still showering with a hosepipe behind a gate, we do the washing up with the hosepipe on the grass and we still don’t have any light bulbs. But progress is being made! We have our tent and a place to cook and eat. We’re harvesting lettuce from the garden and my radishes are almost a good size. I can’t wait until we don’t have to buy veggies any more. Dave keeps saying ‘I thought we were going to work on the house first’, but we do need to make sure we can live comfortably whilst we’re working on it. So, as they keep telling us here poco a poco (little by little) is how things are supposed to be done – and that’s a low stress lifestyle I’m happy to adopt.